But I think the kindest explanation, and maybe the truest, is that chefs are just wired for drug use from the start. Being a cook or a chef means being in the pleasure business, after all; means being the sort of person who has a yen for experimentation and excess. You want to serve what’s good, first you mustknowwhat’s good. You’ve got to be willing to try anything once—a lesson that has a tendency to travel outside the confines of the kitchen. Even now, many years gone, there are kitchens I can’t evoke without also summoning up the alleys and bars that surrounded them, girls I can’t remember without the memory of the mingled tastes of lukewarm Labatts Blue and dope tar on their lips.